This is the latest post in a series about a road trip to New Orleans that starts here.
If you love cemeteries like I do, you would love New Orleans. Bodies are buried in above-ground crypts so the … whatever it is that oozes from decomposing bodies doesn’t seep into the groundwater. Thanks to the heat, bodies decompose quickly and fresh ones can be added onto the pile in after only a year.
Lafayette Cemetery #1 is not to be confused with St. Louis Cemetery #1, where the voodoo queen Marie Laveau is buried. I visited that one my first time in New Orleans, and the two cemeteries look the same except that Lafayette is in the posh Garden District and St. Louis is in Treme, which as depicted in the hit HBO crime series.
The four of us split up and wandered around. I was wondering over this rubber duckie-themed tomb when my phone rang and an androgynous voice asked for “Miss Anne.”
“This here is Tracy,” s/he drawled, calling ya’ll bout your car. It’s lookin’ real bad …”
The line went dead. I hit redial. The connection wouldn’t work. I wandered around for another 20 minutes, clutching my phone and willing it to ring.
When it finally did, Tracy laid it on me: “It needs all new spark plugs,” s/he said.
“How much?” I asked.
“A’m sorrah Miss Anne, but I hate to tell ya it’s gonna be ….” Click.
Lynn, trying to be helpful, said, “That’s what I thought all along! Spark plugs—and now you know that your car has spark plugs!”
I don’t remember what I said but it wasn’t nice. She went silent. By then we had “done” the cemetery and re-joined a walking tour of the Garden District, featuring the houses of Nicholas Cage and Sandra Bullock. It was hot. The phone kept ringing then going dead. For an hour.
Finally, Tracy got through. “What?” I yelled. “I can’t hear you!” Other members of the tour were giving me dirty looks. I finally got that it was going to cost me $800. Since my worst case scenario had been that the car would be a total loss, this was actually a bit of a relief, but still not a welcome amount of money to have to lay out on vacation. Or anytime.
“It’ll take fahv days to get the parts from the dealership in Baton Rouge,” Tracy informed me.
“Five days! But I have to be in Minnesota on Wednesday!” I moaned.
“Unless ya’ll want to use generic parts, Miss Anne” s/he said.
“Of course I do!” I exclaimed.
“Then it’ll cost ya’ll $550.” Now I felt like I was getting off easy. It’s all relative.
After the walking tour we sought refuge from the heat in Starbucks. I apologized to Lynn, and she accepted. No drama. I don’t know what she would say, but I wasn’t surprised that in 11 days spending 24 hours together, there wouldn’t be some disagreement.
We caught the Hop On Hop Off bus again and got off at the restaurant recommended by the guide. I always figure these are the restaurants owned by the guide’s brother in law, but so what? It was really good. In no time Tracy called again to say my car was ready, and I left my pals standing on a street corner in the blazing sun to wait for the bus while I hailed a cab.
The cabbie’s English was not good, but that didn’t stop him from telling me that Tracy’s garage was “too many crooks, and too much expensive.” He informed me that I should have asked him where to take my car. Right. If I could have gone back in time … I changed the subject.
“Where are you from?”
“Palestine,” he replied.
“I was in the Palestinian territories last year.”
He stared at me in the rear-view window.
“You are a Jewish!” he said.
“Ye…sss.” Was he going to take me to a remote spot in Treme, stab me, and dump my body in St. Louis Cemetery #1?
But instead he exclaimed, “We cousins! You, me … Jew, Arab … we must try to get along!”