In Shire, I said good bye to Maki and thanked her for everything. I know it’s a lot of work to host a visitor from HQ, and having worked with her from afar on proposals, I knew how busy she already was.
I hopped back into the Landcruiser and we were off to Axum, from whence I flew to Addis Ababa. There was a woman in front of me across the aisle who had clearly never buckled a seat belt before, and the flight attendant patiently did it for her. Directly across, a woman started donning gold jewelry as soon as the flight took off. I don’t mean delicate, little things, I mean giant, chunky bracelets, necklaces, a pair of earrings that looked like they weighed an ounce each, and some kind of headdress. I wondered if she was flying to some international destination and this was her way of taking assets out of Ethiopia and getting around some limit on taking cash out of the country. But maybe not. When she was done, she looked at her teenaged son, who nodded briefly. He obviously had not given her the feedback she wanted, because she leaned over and smiled at me. I smiled and nodded vigorously and she sat back, satisfied.
I was on the aisle and a young man was next to me at the window. I had brought my stupid feather pillow that I carry all over the world with me. I can’t remember why I had it with me in the cabin instead of stuffed into my suitcase. It had a sateen pillow case. My seatmate kept looking surreptitiously at it. It used to be that men stared surreptitiously at my boobs. Now they stare at my pillow. I could tell he really wanted to touch it and finally his hand crept over as he sought my permission by making eye contact. I nodded. He stroked he sateen. “Good material,” he said. I asked if he was in the fabric business or a tailor or something but he got all flustered and retreated to looking out the window.
We arrived in Addis at about 7:30pm. My onward flight to Heathrow wouldn’t leave until 1:15am. When I had arrived the previous week I had noticed the little shops that sold fly swatters and other trinkets and thought I would check them out when I departed, but they were closed. There was one restaurant with an overpriced menu. They only took cash, and there were no ATMs. After counting and recounting the grubby handful of birr I had left, I ordered fries and a beer and sat down to watch China Global Television Network, which had news about world events on a loop. The food took half an hour to arrive, but what did I care, I had six hours to kill in this place with no shops, no ATMs, no wireless. Worst of all, I didn’t have a book.
I ate as slowly as I could and managed to make it to midnight without nodding off into my fries. It took another half an hour to find someone I could pay.
I went to the bathroom and found more evidence of Chinese world domination.
At least it wasn’t called Golden Shower.
I took my time going to the security area, where a big guard looked at my ticket and said, “No London.”
“Wha…at?” was all I could stammer.
“No London. Terminal One for London.”
I hadn’t even known there was a Terminal One. After receiving conflicting directions from half a dozen uniformed people, I stepped out into the night with my purple suitcase, feeling very conspicuous. It was inky dark. There were no street lights, no sidewalk, no signs. The only people around were men lounging against cars. I walked for at least three city blocks, with each step convinced there was no Terminal One or that if there was, I would never find it. I started to panic; tears welled up; I called myself an idiot.
Then I turned a corner and there it was, lit up like Las Vegas.
Inside, there were a hundred shops and restaurants, each with “free wireless” if you bought something.